Thursday, June 28 Sea of Galilee III

Today, we started out with a boat ride! Cindy surprised us by loading us onto the bus and then only driving a brief distance and loading us on an old fashioned wooden boat and we set sail on the Sea of Galilee. The ship flew the American flag and played the Star Spangled Banner which made us laugh.
They concluded their homage to the US by offerings us trinkets and maps for sail. Jan Nordell said, “Maybe we are on vacation.” The water was glassy smooth with no breeze to stir the air. Tiberius glitters white on the shore. People laughed and chatted easily. We all felt so lucky.

Cindy had them stop the boat and we had a map geek moment. She showed us the Plain of Bethsaida and then divided the area around the Galilee for us into three segments. During the time of Jesus there would be the Jewish section of the lake near Bethsaida, then the Decapolis region which was more Roman, and then a blended region near Capernaum. She pointed out the Tel of Hippos which could be the proverbial “city on a hill” that Jesus spoke of. She also showed us the mouth of the Jordan and discussed Bethsaida. She talked about how it was nestled among many fishing villages. She also point out the city of Magdala, the home village of Mary of Magdala.
We continued the journey across the lake and docked at the museum for the Galilee Boat. We heard about this amazing discovery in 1986, when two brothers discovered the partially exposed boat. It is from the time of Christ and looked like the one that Jesus and his disciples would have traveled in.
One of the brothers who discovered the boat actually came and greeted our group and talked with us. He told about seeing a double rainbow when they first discovered the boat and knew that “there was a special spirit with this boat.” After a complicated process of preservation the boat now stands in a beautiful display at the museum.
We loaded onto the bus and headed to the Mount of Beatitudes. Ron Dobies read Mathew 5 and we sang several songs as we worshipped God for those powerful words. Jim Kielsmeier talked about how Jesus was really illuminating from Micah 4:1-5 and 6:8 describing how the people of God were intended to live. Cindy sent us away to spend 15 minutes reflecting on the passage. Some sat out in the beautiful gardens others went into the church. (The church is hot and sticky. There are electric fans that give little comfort. The whole church smells of body odor. I wanted this to be a divinely inspired moment. Here I am where Jesus told us about the kingdom of God. He gave us instructions about how this kingdom works. And then there is this guy outside one of the open windows jabbering on his cell phone. It’s so annoying. The sweat is dripping and the flies are gathering. Here it is: the kingdom of God making its place among we smelly, hot, rude, self-centered human beings. Here is how it will come. In the beauty of mosaic covered floors, the whir of electric fans, and me giving the cell phone guy a get-out-of–judgment-free card.-Jonna
We load up the bus and head to Korazim. It is a city made entirely out of black Basalt. We see a beautifully constructed synagogue.
The door faces east toward the temple in Jerusalem. This was a place of gathering for the community. Kids were taught. Public discussion always followed the reading of the scripture. It was a place to ask good questions and to study. There were ornate cornices and beautiful pillars with a seat of Moses at the entrance.


This synagogue is from late third century and there are carvings of animals and humans on some of the decorations. Cindy talked about how powerful this discussion oriented kind of worship could be, and how open people were to listening to different interpretations of a text.
We ate lunch under some shade trees. The air was so hot and still it was beginning to be uncomfortable just to sit outside.

We got on the beautifully air conditioned bus and headed to Capharnaum (Capernaum). There is a church here marking Peter’s house. This served at Jesus’ home base. Here Jesus healed Peter’s mother-in-law. Here Jesus healed a centurion’s dying servant. Cindy takes us through Matthew 4:25 and shows us where each of the regions that are mentioned there are and what it meant. Capharnaum was a multi-cultural, multi-political city. It was prosperous due to trade. There were money changers and tax collectors there in abundance. There were also a profusion of Roman soldiers, Jewish farmers, and fishermen. Cindy took us to Matthew 11 where Jesus declares woes over several of the cities at Galilee including Korazim, Bethsaida and Capernaum. She also pointed out that because of the Basalt rock, this city made grinding stones, and that is why Jesus make mention of them when he rebukes his disciples about stopping children from coming to him. The synagogue at Capernaum is made out of white limestone and is much later. What is exposed is a basalt foundation under the synagogue which marks the floor of the synagogue that would have stood here during Jesus’ day. The modern church that is built on the sight is over a Byzantine church with is over a Jewish insula
(house) which has traditionally been believed to be the house of Peter. The air was a stifling 104 degrees. We barely made it through the site before escaping to the bus soggy with sweat.
The bus took us to the Jordan river where the group participated in an affirmation of baptism. We did full emersion with singing, reflection, vows, and then the ministers baptizing those that were interested. It was a touching time. The Jordan was cool and we were refreshed. A delightful ice cream truck waited next to bus and made a killing as we celebrated this marking moment together.

Back onto the bus for our last stop. We headed to Kursi also know as Genasera where Jesus performed the miracle of casting demons out of a tortured man and into a herd of pigs. There is a ruin of a Byzantine Church with well preserved Mosaics and a chapel on the hill. Cindy read mark 5 as we looked around imaging the power of what Jesus did, and then the power of the man’s story as he prepared the area of the Decapolis for the return of Jesus who would feed 4000 of them with a few loaves and fish. Cindy gave us fifteen minutes to explore and a handful hiked up the hill to see the little chapel. It was the end of the day and the humor sank low as Jim Kielsmeier looked out on our glorious view of the Galilee and surrounding hills and said, “This would be a great place to build a restaurant. They could call it Famous David’s, and specialize in pork.”
We hopped into the bus and returned to Ein Gev for swimming for dinner and for great conversation. Another glorious day of exploring the life of Christ. How wonderful to follow our Lord around Galilee as many others have before.

Wednesday, June 27 -- Galilee Part II

We load up in the bus. Eric Gustafson is a little on the edge. Deb Kielsmeier leads us in prayer for the day and especially for Eric. Our first stop is the Tel of Hazor. This was a major city in the Middle Bronze Age (Abraham). It has both an Upper City and a Lower City. The upper section has palaces and a fortification, while the lower has temples, standing stones and houses. By the time of Solomon the lower section had been abandoned. It has strong historic records. So much so that it is believed that there should be a library of cuneiform tablets buried in the city. A couple tablets have been found but they continue to dig hoping for it. We examine the Israelite structure of a wealthy home that was moved off of the sight of a palace that lay below it. We saw the innermost room of the house where only the family would be invited. Cindy explained how olive oil was made. We saw the area of the house where the family would stable the animals, which is probably similar to the place where Jesus was born.
Cindy read Joshua 11 where we learn of Joshua’s Northern campaign which focused on the King of Hazor gathering together a huge number of kings together to fight the Israelites. The logistics of the battle are difficult to understand because the location of the place where the kings pow-wowed would not allow armies of any size to gather.
We got to see the tower that Ahab built as well as walk into the cistern that he developed. We saw the last of the Solomonic gates listed in I Kings 9:15.
It was terribly hot and as we let Hazor Jan Nordell told us about the strange Century plants that we saw along the road. After 100 years these plants flower and then die. Thankfully the bus is cool as we move on.
We arrive at Tel Dan which has the largest spring in the Middle East. This spring pumps out 2000 gallons/ minute. The area is a nature preserve. Lush and green with the songs of birds filling the area. The ancient city is made of smooth stone. We get to see another Middle Age Gate that is arched much like the one in Ashkelon. During that time it was named Laish. When Abraham was pursing a coalition of kings who had kidnapped Lot and his family he would have passed by Laish possibly getting provisions and information. Later when the city was renamed a large Gate complex was built. We see the entire complex of rooms and courtyards. The city gate was key for judicial decisions, begging for alms, taxes, selling of goods. A stone was found with an inscription that noted the house of David, which provides concrete testimony to the greatness of King David.
Cindy read to us the story of the High place that Jeroboam constructed when the northern kingdom split from the southern kingdom after the death of Solomon. Cindy noted that later on the phrase that is used over and over of evil kings is that they “walked in the sin of Jeroboam.” Many people propose that the sin is syncretism, allowing Yahweh worship and other kinds of worship to be occurring simultaneously. Cindy had another hypothesis because Solomon too introduced syncretism and is not remembered for that. Her latest hypothesis is that the sin of Jeroboam was that he is writing God out of the history of the Northern tribes, and now is taking the place of God. He is making a kingdom for himself and is not treating the people like they are equals with him. He is unwilling to live as a peer leader, and wants to be the definer of the national identity. We sat looking at the High Place that he had constructed in Dan and listened as Cindy read Jeremiah’s prophetic descriptions of how ridiculous the worship of other God’s was. We hopped the bus and headed for Caesarea Philippi.
When we arrived, Cindy set us up on sight to talk about the gush of water that came out of the cave that was suppose to be some kind of entrance into the underworld. The main worship was for the god Pan who was half goat and half man. The worship was intensely sexual and involved human sacrifice by throwing people into the cavernous spring. The worship area did cover many Gods. Here people were trying to get the god’s to do what they want. Worship is about control. Debbie Ducar led us in a devotional about this place taking us to Matthew 16 where Jesus comes to this place and asks his disciples who people say he is. This is the place where Peter made his great declaration. Debbie explained that part of the power of what Jesus said was that God was a living God, not a god who died with the winter season and had to be coaxed into resurrection. She also told us that the gates of Hades is what this spring was called, so Jesus was referring to the pagan worship that was going on right in front of the disciples would not prevail against God’s church. She also offered us a thought about what did Jesus mean when he said “upon this rock, I will build my church.” Debbie said one idea was that upon this community, the disciples, is what God would build his church. We felt the power of Christ’s declaration as we recognized that our community was part of the way that God was building his church too. Debbie closed us in a prayer of gratitude.
After lunch, Cindy invited us to go on a hike back into a waterfall. Several decided to go while others explored the park further or enjoyed the air conditioned bus. We hiked the tail back into the park where the Spring of Hermon lies. We saw ancient rock walls, verdant smooth-barked trees making living arches over the path along a rushing stream. We walked over stones and rock ledges winding and twisting deeper into the woods until we came out into the open where a huge amount of water plunged 10 meters into a sea foam green pool that was the color of the Roman Glass jewelry we’ve seen.


A cool damp breeze accompanied the water outward to dry thirsty pilgrims who pause for gasps and pictures in the cool shade. We hiked up a set of stairs and loaded onto the bus hot and tired and happy.

We traveled to one more site. Up a winding road we headed to the Golan Heights where Cindy filled us in about the Yom Kippur War and how the borders changed. We looked at Syria and where no-mans land is located. We wandered down through the bunker and just wondering at the conflict between Israel and her neighbors.
After loading back on the bus, we returned to Ein Gev. There was some swimming and much showering, and then dinner together. All in all the evening was a pleasant close to a busy day.

Southern Galilee - June 26

Today we are leaving Jerusalem. George and Martha Johnson have made it home safe and sound. Deb Kielsmeier prayed for them, for Jan and Peter Nordell’s daughter, and for all of us as we head out of Jerusalem. Johnny is quite talkative this morning. He is going to be spending three solid days with us as we travel out to the region of the Galilee and stay at a resort at En Gev. Johnny is philosophizing about cars and he warns us that, “BMW is not good quality. Mercedes is good quality.” He makes mysterious remarks about computer systems. We are an enrapt audience.
After an hour and a half drive we arrive at Caesarea by the Sea. We have clearly left the Semitic culture behind. There are some statues of the human body in all its glory. What statues do have clothes are in togas. There is an abundance of fruit and produce. This is all before we even enter the amphitheater, which would never have been built by Semitic people either. We do see a statue of a man carrying a sheep behind his head like many of our pictures of the good shepherd. When did this pagan image become a Christian symbol? It calls to question the issues of faith and culture. What is the interaction between the theatre and the church?
As we sit in the amphitheater which is used for modern concerts, we have our map geek moment. We see the Sharon plain as being an empty space at this time because it is swampy and to be avoided. We trace the Costal Highway along the foot hills and then watch as it bend out to the sea, thanks to Herod the Great and his determination. The amphitheatre faces the sea which betrays Herod love for the larger world and especially his reaching for Rome. Clearly Caesarea is a Roman City because everything faces the sea. The sea in Jewish though is a fearful place full of danger and out of control. It is a place to be avoided. No Jewish person would go swimming or play in the water. The language of pre-creation chaos is always water imagery. Herod wanted to engage the world and loved the sea. Herod went as far as to build a magnificent harbor with a new technology: cement that hardens under water. The harbor was huge! It had an entrance to the North with favored the wind and avoided silt.
Herod continues his nature defying building with his palace. We walk over to the palace and sit in what would have been the praetorian or the place where the guards lived and held prisoners. Herod’s palace is built out on a natural reef and literally hangs out over the sea. To ships sailing into Caesarea’s magnificent harbor, it would appear that the palace was floating. Cindy takes us to Acts 9 where Peter in Joppa (very Semitic place) receives a vision at the same time as Cornelius in Caesarea. It is powerful to see Christianity take its first giant leap beyond Judaism. Both Peter and Cornelius are prepped by God and are ready for this powerful new way of understanding the chosen people. Jesus set this up well by interacting with many people who were outside the Jewish faith.
Then Cindy reveals that this is the place where Paul says, “I appeal to Caesar” and charts a course to Rome. We are in wonder as we realize that here is where the Gospel begins its journey to the heart of Rome and the “utter most parts of the earth.”
Cindy sets us loose to explore this amazing sight where we see the Hippodrome where sporting events would have been held. We see the ruins of other palaces and medieval shops with back alleys connecting them. As we look out on that stunning blue of the Mediterranean, we see a shrunken harbor that merely suggests the grandeur of Herod’s harbor. The heat and humidity hung heavy.
After ice cream, iced coffee, and anything else we can get cold, we load onto the bus by walking through the crusader gate and head out to see Hadrian’s Aqueduct. This magnificent structure stretches along the coast from Mount Carmel to Caesarea. It is made of kurkar and still stands magnificently. This aqueduct was used to bring water to the city, while Herod’s aqueduct, which we did not see, fed the surrounding agricultural lands. As we drive away headed toward Mount Carmel we pass the lush fields and begin to ask Johnny what does and does not grow in Israel. He kept emphasizing that everything grows here, “We have everything,” he stated, “This is the land of Jesus.”
Once up on Mount Carmel we pause for another map geek moment. It is amazing how much we can see. We locate Mt. Gilboah, Mt. Tabor and the Tel of Megiddo, which appears to control all of the Jezreel Valley.
Cindy cautions us against projecting back in time the lush agriculture we see in the Jezreel Valley. Instead, it was a swampy mess with the Kishon River able to drain it into the Mediterranean. Megiddo does connect to prime trade routes, which makes Megiddo incredibly important.
As we sit on Mount Carmel, Cindy transports us back to the clash between King Ahab and Elijah or more appropriately the contest between Baal and Yahweh for the heart of Yahweh’s people. It has been three years without rain which is Yahweh’s punishment and a way of thumbing your nose at the “storm god Baal.” Jezebel who is proselytizing the Jewish people with Baal worship is furious when she learns that Baal has been disgraced and the key leaders of the faith are dead. Elijah runs, but he runs back to Sinai, his roots, to try to rediscover who this God is and what is going on. He feels alone and as though God may have forsaken him for Good.
But God does not come in these gigantic theophanic experiences of wind, fire and earthquake. He comes in a gentle breeze and without answering Elijah’s questions sends his servant on his way to continue in obedience to God’s plan. God will continue to reach out and call back the Northern kingdom to follow him, until there is no one left to listen.
We eat lunch then load back up and head to the Tel of Megiddo. This is an ancient and powerful city which has been building structures for a very long time. We see the gate that Thutmose III walked through when Egypt took Megiddo. Thutmose said, “When you take Megiddo, you take a thousand cities.” We find Early Bronze Age sacrificial altars and temples and standing stones that all predate Abraham.
We find a huge silo which evidences the wealth of produce. Cindy reminds us that Amos confronted the rulers of the Northern kingdom to quit hoarding wealth and food. The rulers were suppose to take care of the people as equals not to act as though they were some how better and able. Amos called the women of the region “the cows of Bashan” because of their fat from hoarding. We also saw a storehouse or stables there is argument both ways. Jonna did a devotional about this being the mount of Megiddo or Armageddon. She reminded the group that there is a struggle for control between good and evil. That struggle has it’s place in our own lives and we are called on to remember in our own lives our own Megiddo’s and thank God for his presence whether the city was saved or fell to evil’s hands that the Messiah ultimately will ultimately have power in our lives.


We got on the bus and headed to the Nazareth Ridge. We took our map geek moment to pay attention to the mountains and the Jezreel Valley. Cindy led us through the journeys of Joseph and Mary across the valley and where Jesus lived out his child hood. She read the passage in Matthew where Jesus taught in the synagogue on the Isaiah passage. She pointed out the church that is built on the spot of that teaching. The heat was intense, but we hung on her every word as she pointed out Mount Tabor where Deborah and Barak conquered Sisera’s chariot-spiked army.
At the end as we processed the day with Cindy we asked many questions that she could only smile at and encourage us to study on. She did let us know that there was one other prophet out of Galilee. That was the prophet Jonah. We wondered if Jesus stood on the ridge where we stood and looked at all of his rich history around him as he learned his own place in that fabulous story.
We loaded into the bus and went to Ein Gev a Kibbutz. It is really a resort on the Galilee. The rooms are cool and spacious. The food is similar, but enough different. The Galilee is warm and beautiful with the lights of Tiberius filling the hillside opposite our rooms. We are tired tonight and full. We have traveled from ancient civilizations to thoughts of the end of the human story finishing with our eyes on our Lord. We’ll sleep well.

Palestinian Bethlehem Trip

Today, Monday, was a day of contrasts. We went to Bethlehem again but to see completely different things. The wall, of course, is “in your face” and the dominant thing at the check point. Then, after multiple miscommunications about guides, etc, we arrived at the completely modern “ ELCA Lutheran Christmas Church” where we learned about a wonderful fine arts education program that they are in the process of developing.
Then we wove around narrow streets that buses have no business being on – why there are not more fender benders here, I will never know. Anyway, we arrived at one of the Palestinian Refugee camps. Here’s where the contrasts continued. Eleven thousand people live in an area one square kilometer in size. It used to be the like a big jail, before the Israelis left, but they keep the guard’s box as a reminder. Anyway, as you can imagine, it is very, very crowded. It used to be that the people lived in tents, but one year, several years ago, it was very cold – they say it snowed (don’t know if that is a metaphor or really true), but many many people died, so they started building concrete structures – about 3 rooms - not electricity, or water inside – one toilet per 28 women and one for 28 men (That’s a double injustice to the women, yet again, eh? Women always need to have more toilets.)




By the way, I am sure you have noticed that this is not Jonna writing. She has the day off so she can do a little shopping, etc. and just plain relax. This is Deb Ducar and I am sorry to say I was not a high school English teacher and so not have her flair for writing but I will try to convey to you, somehow the immensity of what we saw today.
Back to the refugee camp. It was quite interesting to see the individual flats – most were depressing – almost as though people had given up – trash, inside and out, etc. etc. But some were amazing. Neat as a pin, flowers, even a tree or two, which is beyond amazing, considering what a luxury water is. But in the long run, having a tree to shade your home would be a huge benefit. They showed us their brand new activities building, funded by the – literally, I think the paint was still drying. Kids were using a library and were practicing in a dance class. Great that they still value cultural things, etc. We had a traditional Palestinian lunch served graciously to us by the folks there and got to purchase some of their hand embroidered items. A reflection on the people there. We have asked multiple times in multiple settings how in the world they carry on in such dismal conditions and with so many giant inconveniences. They always say HOPE. And it is not just the religious folks who say it. They all say it. They often use inflammatory language when they are describing events to us (e.g. The Palestinian disaster in 1948), but a huge portion of them get up in the morning, smile, are glad for the day and they carry on – despite, 87 per cent unemployment. They have hope that they will someday get their land and their homes back. Many have carefully saved the keys from 60 years ago and pass them from generation to generation.
We had a brief time at an SOS orphanage, which are found in almost every country in the world. They have about a hundred kids in 10 houses with individual “moms” in each home. They stay there til they are 14 - then off to what sounds like a boarding school – one for boys, one for girls. It was beautiful, flowers and trees everywhere but WE wanted to meet the children. They said we could but the reason nobody was outside, was that the weather service was saying that it was too hot yesterday, today and tomorrow and that everyone should stay inside. When we told them we had been to Masada yesterday (possibly the hottest place on earth next to Qumran), they looked at us really funny. Anyway, we popped into different houses and once again, watched Bob Burns become the pied piper in about 10 seconds –
They were playing with his camera, taking pictures, being in pictures, squealing with joy and not one common word of language was spoken, nor did it need to be. He has an amazing way with kids as those of you who have ever had a three year old in Sunday School. He has been teaching that age for 9 years. People even want to change their last names so they can qualify to get into his class and well they should.
We had a very slow time of it at the check point, which was going to make us VERY late for our class back at JUC, so by the second call of how late we would really be, Cindy gave us the afternoon off from class, so everyone is now out spending money in the market. Some spouses might be thinking the market is entirely too close by for our own good. Actually, I am glad that we had a slow time at the check point, so we got some teeny, tiny idea of what it is like for the Palestinians every day. They not only get checked and double checked and humiliated every time they pass through, but often have to drive miles out of their way to get where they want to go. Ours was a minor inconvenience. However, it is a tad unnerving to wake up from a vague snooze with an Israeli soldier, who looks about 12, standing over you with an AK 47 or the equivalent to see your passport.

Dead Sea Area Field Study

We start out this day very early 6:30 AM. We are missing the Nordell’s, Jan is not feeling well and is taking the day to rest. George and Martha Johnson are headed home. We pause to pray for them and feel sad about what we are loosing. Amy Flack has decided to stay in Jerusalem for the day to go to services at a local church and just be in the city. Jim Kielsmeier is speaking at a couple of organizations. He is paying our speakers back for their generous visits with us.
Johnny is taking us directly to Masada which is located near the Dead Sea. We move deeply into the wilderness. Miles of chalky hills, then suddenly palm tree forests where the date harvest is in full swing. The Dead Sea stretches out in front of us cool blue and immense in the middle of all the sparseness. Because of its minerality and salinity nothing grows near it. Cindy tells us that there is a water crises with the lake. There is too much water being drained off of it, and it is literally going down an entire meter a year. No one is moving to help the situation yet. High red cliffs hang about the sand with flat tops. Even brush is sparse here.
We turn off the highway to the fortress of Masada. We step off the bus and though it is early yet, the air is hot and water bottles are already being drunk. Yadin was the excavator of Masada in the 1950s. He was brilliant and was able to stir international interest in the dig. It is the most excavated sight in Israel. David might have hidden at Masada from Saul. We know he was hiding in this country. Herod built another lavish palace here. He built an aqueduct to the palace and had a one million gallon cistern built. The mosaics of the Western Palace are gorgeous with colors that go with the natural area, the red of the rock, the blue of the Dead Sea, the pale green of what little vegetation was there. The mosaics are in geometric designs avoiding any "graven images" probably as a nod to his discontented Jewish subjects.
We travel up the rocky island on a large cable car. We see the snake path below us that Jewish soldiers used to have to hike up at their official initiation into the army.

The spirit of Masada is the Josephus story. The story is an idealistic portrayal. It is the stuff of legend with beautiful heroes and heroines acting in great honor and nobility. It really is a national story that captures the heart of the people. It is the spirit and pride of the Jewish nation. There are reasons to question the account that Josephus has recorded. Josephus himself was a rabbi and commander of an army. He is a turn-coat to the Romans when it was clear that he and his men were going to be defeated. He becomes the Roman historian of the campaign against Israel. He has to placate Rome and wants to honor the Jewish people at the same time. We read Josephus' account of the breach of Masada where the remains of the Roman siege ramp are in place. It is a moving account of bravery with an ending in which all the inhabitants of Masada choose to die at their own hands rather than to be slaves to the Romans. Cindy pointed out the remains of a Roman Camp that lies below Masada. It is well preserved because of the dryness of the area. We can also see the remains of the siege wall that the Romans erected so that no one could escape.


We are surprised by how large the complex is. We pass the remains of a columbarium, which at this time was a place for keeping doves and pigeons for food and for fertilizer. We walk through the the northern palace catching sight of Herod's plaster faux finish that turned field stones into beautifully sculpted slabs of granite and marble pillars. The palace has three tiers. The top tier has a beautiful open courtyard for entertaining. The second tier is a rounded structure used for private quarters for Herod and his family. The final tier is another gorgeous entertainment courtyard with stunning frescoes of red, olive, and blue. The pillars have the elaborate carvings still on the top. The faux finish is still on until about half way up the pillar. The view stretches for miles. The breeze is brisk and helps dry the sweat. The descent down the face of Masada to the third level of the palace makes one appreciate the incredible giftedness of the architects of the lavish palace. The ascent back to the top makes one appreciate the physical fitness of people two thousand years ago. Cindy guides us through the well-preserved bath house that has three rooms: the Fridgedarium for a cold water dip, the Tepedarium for warmth and comfort probably a massage room, and the Caldarium which was the steam room. We see the remains of the beautifully tiled floors, the gorgeous pillars and arched doorways. The false floor in the Caldarium that would have provided heat for this steam room. Several were intending to walk down the snake path, but the path was closed because of the intensity of the heat. We fill our water bottles a little disappointed, but delighted with what we got to see.
After ice creams and sodas, we loaded back on the bus and drove along the shores of the Dead Sea toward En Gedi. We can see the receded shoreline of the Sea. It is startling the damage that is being done. We unload at a thatch covered shelter where some put on bathing suits to wade the pools of En Gedi. Cindy tells us about two creatures of this area the Hyrex (a badger like creature) and the Ibex (looks like a small antelope) that we might spot. The ibex have the distinction of being sure-footed in the rocky places and it is those feet that are mentioned in scripture. Essentially the request of the Psalmist is for God to give him feet like the ibex who dances on the rocky hillsides. The Psalmist doesn't ask for a different land. He asks for feet for the land he has. Cindy invites us to think about the power of water as we walk through this dry, dusty, rocky land toward the pools of En Gedi.
the story of David sparing Saul's life in one of the caves of En Gedi. He also reads Psalm 163 which is all about thirsting for God in a dry land. We walk on to the pools and suddenly there is an explosion of green and the lush sound of running water. Elegant reeds grow thick along the edge of the pools. Green moss covers the rocks that the water cascades down. Trees and birds abound. Each pool gets successively deeper and cooler. Caves line the canyon walls. The natural spring that fills these pools is one of the few in this area. At the top of all the successive pools was David's waterfall. The water plunges 50 feet into a deep rocky basin that sparkles invitingly but is roped off. The rocks are jade colored with life and all down the face of the falls grow vines and plants drinking thirstily from this unexpected abundance. It is amazing to see how powerful a little water is.
We stop under a tree and have a Communion service led by Don Genereaux that includes The soil looks completely unusable as though it would sustain nothing, but add water and a paradise of lushness explodes. (Jesus choosing the image of living water is much richer than I have understood in my water soaked life in Minnesota. Water has power to make life out of barren waste. So God too brings life to the deserts of me, my wastelands of selfishness and fear.-Jonna)
We cross over the road from En Gedi on the bus to the park where we will take a dip in the Dead Sea. The water feels so soft, almost oily. It is intensely minerally and salty. We bob like corks at its surface. So this is what it is like to be made of plastic. We know the water has healing qualities, but it is not long until it begins to sting.
After 15 minutes we head to the showers to rinse off and change. Cindy has graciously been grilling hotdogs for lunch. We eat pita dogs and hummus and of course olives on the shores of this sea in which nothing lives. We are reminded by Cindy of Ezekiel 47 of the picture of a river flowing from a newly restored temple in Jerusalem that runs into the Kidron valley which would drain here into the Dead Sea. This river of water from God is to be so fresh and abundant that it makes the Dead Sea fresh, and fish and plant life fill this area. A powerful picture of God's restoration that links easily with Revelation 22 of a heavenly city that comes down and a river that brings life to a land where trees will grow whose leaves heal entire nations. Eden restored.
We load back up and head to Qumran. The heat is now oppressive well over a hundred. The wind is hair dryer hot. One could not be far from water for very long. The Qumran community is obsessed with water. They have many mikvahs (traditional Jewish purity baths) there are many cisterns and pools to hold water. The Dead Sea Scrolls were discovered near this community, but the connection between the community and the scrolls is unclear. We do know that not all the scrolls were made in this community, and they seem to be a collection of scrolls from all over Israel. In 1947 a shepherd found the scrolls and sold a couple to an antique dealer who got them to an antiquities professor. Wesaw the famous cave 4 which is the one in which most of the scrolls were found. The heat is oppressive, but we are amazed to be in this ancient place where the Essenes lived their lives in purity far away from the corruption of the temple. We wonder together if John the Baptist may have been part of this sect. Then we load back onto the bus and head back to Jerusalem leaving behind the intense heat of this wilderness.

Several head out shopping after a quick shower. Some back to Shabban's other go to the Damascus Gate where the real market is. No touristy trinkets there, but produce, meat and other goods that locals shop for. After supper Dr. Reuven Gal the chief psychologist for the Israeli army joins us for a conversation. He shares his long history in Israel. His family has been here for six generations. He fought in the 1967 war one half mile from his pregnant wife and their home. He spoke of the intensity of the love that Jewish people have for this land. Everyone in Israel goes into the military for at least three years of service. He painted a picture of the Jewish people and their sense that they must survive. Every conflict is about survival. Every battle fought feels like it is one more chance that the holocaust will happen again. They are 7.5 million people surrounded by millions and millions of Arab nations who hate them and want to see them destroyed. It explains the force with which Israel reacts. It painted a picture of a people backed into a corner perpetually fighting just to live. The two evenings stand next to each other. Injustice has been done and continues to be done to both sides. They both want the same land. This is a complex and difficult issue. No easy answers today. Jim Kielsmeier leads a prayer for Reuven and comments on what an exceptional and rare opportunity we have just had to hear him speak.
As we head to our rooms, the real hope seems to be that living water could some how restore this political desert. We are dependent again on the goodness of God.

Judah, Shephelah, Philistia Field Study

We start the day by heartily wishing Jim and Deb Kielsmeier a happy anniversary. Cindy asked us, "Is everyone accountable?" It was good to start with a laugh. It is Shabbat and so we have to work a little harder to find places open. As we traveled out of Jerusalem, Peter Nordell asked our driver Johnny, "The Jewish holy day is called shabbat, what do you call the Muslim holy day?" Johnny thought for a moment, shrugged and said, "Friday."
We are headed out into the agricultural land of the Shephelah. Everywhere we see terraced hillsides with olive trees growing on them. There are vineyards with watch towers. The earth has a red mineral color and there are piles of stones moved out of the way.
We stop at our first overlook which is mountainous and piny. It feels a little like home except for the mountains. We see hillsides of green. These are the steep canyons of the Sorek system. We have very tight horizon lines so you can't see very far. You keep your family close. The area is very tribal everything you know and need is around you. We then read through some of the farming images of scripture in Psalm 80, Isaiah 5 and John 15. Israel is a vine in the Old Testament that God is caring for and tending, but then the vine doesn't produce fruit. Jesus in John describes himself as the vine now, and we are connected into him. Cindy explains that there has been very little digging in the Judean hillside because people are more interested in the famous sights and those are the ones that get funding.
We hop back in the bus and head to Tel Bet Shemesh. The land that lays before us is the land that was given to the tribe of Dan by God. This land is the land that most of the battles between Israel and the Philistines were fighting over. It is the land that provides control of the door way to the hill country. And it is the doorway to the coast and especially the coastal trade route. The Israelites have the hill country and the Philistines have the coastal plains. The battles rage back and forth between them gaining and loosing this ground. Cindy describes an ongoing cycle in Judges. The cycle begins with the people forgetting God, then God allows the "mice" kingdoms around them to oppress them. The people cry out to God for help and God raises up a judge to lead the people. Peace ensues for the life of the judge, but then the judge dies and the people forget God and begin worshipping the Canaanite gods again. And on it goes again and again. We move through the book geographically from the North to the South. The tribes are clearly falling apart, loosing their unity, until we end at the tribe of Dan where they have only a little territory and no support from surrounding tribes. Cindy points out the hill of the city of Timnah where Sampson is born. She walks us through this marvelous story of this one-man-wrecking-machine of a judge. He battles the Philistines for Dan acting as a thorn in their side until even in his death he brings amazing glory to God. Cindy traced Sampson's journeys from one hill to another. We watch as he ranges over the promised territory of Dan acting as he pleases.
Rob Lund led us in a devotional about how the Israelites lost the Ark of the covenant to the Philistines. The Ark was nothing more than a good luck charm. Rob cautioned us against thinking about God that way. Then we see that the Philistines ignore God's warnings to them until they break out in what sounds like the bubonic plague. Then we see several men treating the Ark to casually. Again Rob drew us to this powerful and holy God who is our Abba and how we must live in the tension of those two truths. Cindy pointed out Tel Sofie which is the city of Gath in the Bible. This is the home of Goliath.


Back on the bus and off to the next Tel. Up hot and dusty stairs we climb to the top of this hill made of civilization piled on top of civilization. This one is Tel Azeka and we traced the trade routes out of the Elah valley to Gibeah the capital city of Saul. Cindy brought to life the story of David and Goliath. She noted where the battle lines where drawn up and where the encampments were.
She emphasized that Saul over and over is given the chance to be a great leader, but he always fails when it comes to his heart. He struggles with impatience, fear and greed. He never is able to live up the leadership he is called to. David is the one who always returns to God. His humility is what saves him every time. Bob Burns noted how the choices that David's heart led him to, made David a man with a powerful legacy.
Lisa Burns led us in an experiential devotional where we were guided from place to place by our "buddy" with our eyes closed. We then as a community processed the experience. Lisa summed up our time by emphasizing that we learn to walk with God by building on the experiences we've had before. We learn trust the more we walk. Deb Kielsmeier prayed that we would remember the trustworthiness of God. We ate lunch in the shade of the pines on Tel Azeka and then loaded onto the bus.
Rob asked Johnny if he could take a picture out the front window of the bus. Johnny with his usual dry humor replied, "This is forbidden." Cindy found a gas station and we all rushed to get chocolate, diet cokes and chips.
Finally we arrived at Ashqelon, a Philistine city on the Mediterranean. We got to walk beneath an excavated city gate from 1800 BC. Before this gate was found it was believed that arched gates were developed first by the Greeks. We then hit the beach. The water was warm and a penetrating turquoise. Mauve and amber shells glittered in the soft sands. Many put on bathing suits and headed in. We saw on the beach some of the fallen walls of the city made of solidified sand, a rock called kurkar. One man on the beach who lives in Ashkelon said, "Unless I touch the water every day, I cannot breath." This made sense to us all. We dried off and left reluctantly. Thoughts of a whole day on the Mediterranean haunted us.
In the evening Jim Kielsmeier brought in 2 friends who are Muslim Palestinians. Samah founded the Palestinian Women's Center and works as a consultant for the UN. Hallad is a researcher and scholar, the current director of Save the Children in Palestine. The story of their painful oppression and harassment was difficult to hear. Clearly there is suffering at the hands of the Israelies for the Palestinian people. Amy Flack asked the couple what gave them hope. Hallad said, "My only hope is to resist. I cannot give in to oppression." Jim Kielsmeier closed the evening by talking about the beauty of this couple's courage and integrity. Deb Kielsmeier led us in a prayer for them.

A day of remembering great men and great battles. A day of gentle beaches, and last real live heroes telling their current stories of struggle against what is wrong. We sleep tonight among fresh memories of giants.